Creative Thailand

The details and art of suit-making by Pinky Tailor

Writer : Editor Team

Translator : Parisa Pichimarn

Pinky Tailor first opened its doors to provide specialized tailoring in 1980. Owned by Mr. Pinky, the gifted master tailor opened his first store in Udon Thani, which was the base of the American army at that time. Lots of Westerners and foreigners must report to that base, thus creating a large variety of tailoring customers. Once the American base has moved away, Mr. Pinky decided to continue his business in Bangkok, first at Daimaru Department Store, before moving to its current location at the Ploenchit area today.




                In the past, most of the customers have been diplomats, businessmen and elderly men. The second generation of Pinky Tailor is lead by Pawin Palitdejtakul, Pinky’s 33-year-old son with a background in engineering, who is continuing the family business. The owner and head designer at Pinky Tailor has expanded the customer base of the business to reach more younger, new generation customers. While the expertise and techniques related to making classic suits are retained, today the techniques and way suits are created have changed on many dimensions.




                The suit reflects the man

Today, Pinky Tailor has a much more modern way of tailoring and pattern-making, as well as outstanding designs unlike others. This has propelled them to showcasing their suit collections at Paris Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week in 2016.

The techniques of suit-making in this new era of the store places utmost importance with impeccable patterns for a tailor-made quality. Attention to detail is given to the selection of materials from the fabric, lining, buttons as well as other small details. Completely new designs are also created in order to suit specific occasions and to bring out the personality of the wearer in order to give them confidence. Pawin does this by combining his skills as a tailor and the basics of engineering that he has learned to calculate the perfect fit for the human body.


                

                Details are everything

How the suit is made and what occasion it is for is key to understanding what the customer wants to become when they are wearing the suit. Details are of utmost importance but the most crucial step is the body measurement and giving advice to help with the customer’s decision-making. The perfect fit can only come about when there is a mutual understanding between the tailor and customer. Great care must be given when taking body measurements, because what one thinks is a good fit may be too loose for the customer, or what one thinks is too loose may be the perfect fit for the customer.

A highlight at Pinky Tailor is in the playful details of the fabrics. There are over thousands of linings to choose from, if not painted from scratch. Customers can design their own stitching details, down to the very pockets, buttons, inner collar and back vent. These details can all be achieved because of its tailor-made nature and ensures a better fit as it is made especially for its wearer. Unlike ready-to-wear suits, which take the average size measurements of Asian and European men, there is less precision and the fit may not be as seamless unlike something tailor-made.

Tailor-made suits are a craft in its own.  As something that is handmade and requires human labor, its charm can be clearly seen in meticulous details such as the seams, pockets and buttons.

Currently, Pinky Tailor’s suits can be roughly divided into a few groups according to their patterns, such as power suit, single-breasted, double-breasted and tuxedo. Another way is by category where casual suits are more relaxed, are of lighter weight and provide no shoulder padding. Power suits on the other hand, are more formal, have clearer stitching and are not lightweight like casual suits due to their usage of linen, wool or 100% cotton.

Nevertheless, all suits evolve with the times and the popular styles of today sees larger collars and a longer body length. Double-breasted suits are also more common. As a master tailor that is always up for a challenge, it is no surprise that Pinky Tailor’s unconventional designs have found its way onto magazine spreads—be it their men’s suits, dresses to stylish, minimal wedding gowns for women. Besides their expertise of suit-making that requires precision and attention to detail, it is clear that thinking outside of the box, embracing modernity and adapting to change has been the secret to the brand’s longstanding survival.

Sources:

https://www.spotlightdaily.net/spice/pinky-tailor-godfather-ploenchit/

https://www.facebook.com/pg/PinkyTailor/photos/?ref=page_internal

https://www.unlockmen.com/pinky-tailor/

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